Converting a D from silicone to LHM

Finishing the job...

2010-01-12T04:26:00.000-08:00

Getting the height corrector leak returns into the new rubber piece.

Hooking up the tank. from left to right: Return from the Y, suspension returns, pedalo return and height corrector leak returns.

Cut out the bulge for new rubber hose.

A common problem: The radiator hose rubs on the hydraulic line of the rack. At some point the line will leak. This one was close.

I've just glued a piece of rubber with some gasket sealer.

The owner complained about gas smell...

Ready to fill the system with the hydraulic fluid.

... Not green but works as well as LHM.

The placement of the regulator turned out to be right.

A little trick to align the hood: use a socket to hold the latch opened.

... And a gauge filler on the left side.

Apparently finished, but when I was about to tuck away the rubber hoses under the car, here what happened...

The Y broke and I had a hydraulic fluid shampoo!

The small line is very fragile, so instead of changing the part with an original, I use T's readily available at Home Depot. This will last for ever. For an "original" restoration I would have use the appropriate part of course.

After driving the car for a while, the leak returns of the height correctors started to leak. I just removed the fender and shields and replaced the rubber connection with a smaller diameter hose.

Tank + the rack is back!

2010-01-06T04:10:00.000-08:00

The tank is ready. I am not 100% happy since I have some fish-eyes on the top, but it is difficult to get rid of the silicone which was in this tank for years and now all over my garage!

I've looked for vinyl compatibility with mineral oil and found out that it is good. So, I have changed the original stained clear tube with a new one. The mini and maxi marks are approximately 4cm and 7cm from the bottom rib. I couldn't find the right lettering for Mini and Maxi; they are 1cm height. This tank doesn't look original but it is clean and there is no confusion about the kind of fluid to use.

The rack and cross-member are in.

Fluid tank and rubber returns...

2010-01-05T05:48:00.000-08:00

I have chemically stripped the tank. I did not want to sand blast since it would be very difficult to remove all sand from inside the tank. I was concerned about silicone while painting the tank. I have some traces on the top of the tank but it is not too bad. For a concourse type restoration I would have to redo the paint.

The piping to the main accumulator is completed

The Y is installed and all rubber lines are in place.

Ready to install the tank.

Main accu (Continued), brackets and piping.

2010-01-01T04:39:00.000-08:00

Forming the line going from the pump to the main accumulator.

Temporary in place.

The line going to the firewall is now done.

Now connected to the car's hydraulic system.

Brackets for main accumulator relocation

2009-12-31T05:57:00.001-08:00

Worked on the main accumulator relocation.
These dimensions of the hole spacing are for a 1966 D (The last relocation I did), so it doesn't match the bracket for a 1967. I have posted this photo for future reference. Also, this apply to a manual gear box. The main challenge is to get the regulator and sphere between the air duct for the right caliper and the air duct going to the radiator. Also the sphere has to be close to the front cross-member with enough space to be able to remove the sphere for repair. Unfortunately there is not enough space to remove the brake pads without loosing up the assembly (The pads don't ware that fast, so no big deal as far as I'm concerned).

The dimensions of the flat plates are good for a 1966 and earlier brackets. I had to cut the long one to fit the newer bracket.

This is to reinforce the brackets and avoid any vibrations.

It is now painted and drying...

Installing components in engine compartment.

2009-12-30T05:31:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, I've installed the front height corrector...

... Pedalo...

... Front calipers...
... and brake accumulator.

Due to the silicone, the car was equipped with a pressure switch for the brake lights.

It is for a motorcycle originally.

The HP pump is also in place.

Now it is time to tackle the main accumulator relocation...

Front suspension cylinders, dampers and balls.

2009-12-29T05:10:00.000-08:00

Started on the front right quarter...

I blew air on the suspension return from the back.

Now the back and front connections of the returns are buttoned up. Since it is a 1967, the rubber is supposed to be compatible for LHS and LHM.

The balls on the front suspensions were really rusted.

Tried to clean them but changed them with new ones (9/16" (14.28mm) hard chrome ball grade 100)

Some of the holes in the shock absorbers were clogged. Also, this configuration is before 1963; may be the sphere were change at an earlier stage but the shock absorbers were not updated. I put them back together with the new configuration (Only 2 washers).

The left side is finished.

The rod on the left side was damaged. Thanks to Dremel, I've ground and polished the end of the rod.

Left cylinder now in place.

Started to reconnect the lines on the left side.

Pedalo.

2009-12-19T05:14:00.000-08:00

Starting on the pedalo

From left to right:
- To the front brakes (Male)
- Return (Male)
- From brake accumulator (Female)
- To the rear brakes (Female)

Probably the most difficult part to remove (Between chassis and steering column)

The pedalo is out

I measured the distance of the protruding screw.

I have stacked two 2-114 Orings to replace the original square CS seal (The small Oring is a 2-010)

Ready to be put back together (2 Orings 3.5x20). The small connector Orings are 1.9x4.2

Rear quarter done, front suspension, tank and rubber returns

2009-12-18T04:29:00.000-08:00

The rear left quarter is finished. The rear spheres are also installed. David Cossit-Levy in Orange, CT, has rebuilt them for me. He can rebuild and recharge spheres; you can contact him at DCossitt@imshealth.com.

... so is the front height corrector (Was as bad as the rear one).

Working on the front left suspension cylinder...

The replacement O ring for the cylinder is a 2-221

Moving to the returns and tank.

- The bottom opening goes to the tank.
- The small left opening comes from the steering rack.
- Top left comes from the height correctors
- The big top right comes from the main accumulator.

I've remove the bulge on height corrector line to rubber hose connection; It is very hard to fit a reinforced hose to it. In addition, it is a very bad location and if the hose fails, it is going to be easier to replace later.

Height corrector return hose: 8mm x 26 cm.

The returns to the tank (From left to right):

- The leak returns from the height correctors
- Return from the pedalo: 6.35mm x 108 cm
- Suspension cylinders return: 8mm x 92 cm
- Return from the Y (Rack, height correctors and main accu); 10mm x 96 cm

The leak returns from the height correctors go all the way up in the tank.

Thank you silicone fluid!

I've used a sphere O ring for the bottom of filter (2-127); I used petroleum jelly to fit is since it is slightly over-sized.
The top O ring is 3.5 x 38 mm (Or 2-222)

The cap takes a 5 x 35 O ring

Damper and distribution block.

2009-12-17T05:11:00.000-08:00

The dampers were also very dirty...

The torque to put them together is 14.47 ft/lbs and to install them on the sphere, the torque is 13.74 ft/lbs. I use 14.50 and 13.50 ft/lbs. the torque to install them is less to avoid over-tightening the assembly.

Moving to the front left quarter. Once everything is disconnected I will blow the lines from the back, then I'll install the rear height corrector.

The distribution block:

One of the 2 cylinders (Very rusted of course)

I was wondering how to remove the rust on the balls and cylinders other than using a tumbler. A powerful magnet worked great.

The O rings at the ends are supposed to be 2x16. Ordering them would set me back a full week. I had in stock 2-113; just to be sure I tested them under pressure and everything is fine.

Rear height corrector and brake flexible.

2009-12-16T04:38:00.000-08:00

Time to take care of the height corrector...

Extremely dirty inside.

The cleaned and (lightly) polished piston with the new parts

Done.

I either blow or suck out the silicone fluid.

Finished the brake lines.

... and installed the suspension cylinder.

Left brake and suspension cylinders.

2009-12-15T04:00:00.000-08:00

Moving to the left side. I have started on the suspension cylinder.

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I've used some fabric designed to be used on electrical harnesses; works pretty good to protect the "cafetière" (When you don't have the rubber ring).

Moving to the brake cylinder... This one did not work either; it was seized.

Better now...

Bad cylinders...

Ahhh....

The old line with the flexible (using flared connections) ...

I've drilled new holes on a used bracket to change the angle.

HP pump.

2009-12-14T05:43:00.000-08:00

I finished the HP pump yesterday.

First bad sign, no grease in the bearing. An O ring failed and the fluid rinsed out the grease.

The pump was extremely dirty inside with some kind of varnish looking like and feeling like epoxy glue.

I received a NOS bearing from Dave Burnham. These bearings are rare to come by; it is possible to purchase kits now with a different bearing and a ring to adapt the shaft to the bearing.

I always test the pump before going any further (between 2000 psi and 2500 psi).

Before installing the tank I saw the intake off to remove the bulge.

Brake flexible conversion.

2009-12-13T05:16:00.000-08:00

The rear brakes were converted to flexible hoses using flared connectors.

No wonder why the rear brake shoes looked new... I don't think that a lot of fluid was getting there.

The old flared connector to the chassis.

The new one silver brazed with the Citroen type connector.

I've modified a used bracket of a later model to fit this car.

The bracket should be attached to the suspension arm, but I cannot drill and tap without removing it. I used Ligarex to attach the flexible hose to the suspension arm.

Installed the cylinder and check the shoes' alignment.

Done.

The cylinder is installed. Just waiting for the sphere.

Right rear suspension cylinder and brake cylinder.

2009-12-11T05:15:00.000-08:00

I have started the HP pump but I am waiting for a bearing. So, I will change my plans and start working on the rear right quarter.
Here is the suspension cylinder...
The piston had some markings. After some fine sanding and polishing...

Done. I have replaced the electrical tape on the boot to protect the boot against the ligarex.

Jumping to the brakes; clean and in good shape...

... except for the inside of the cylinder. It was very dirty and scored.

Some honing is required.

I've used some 600 grid sand paper to smooth out the bore...

... and restored the pistons also.

Done.

Front calipers

2009-12-08T05:55:00.000-08:00

Working on the calipers...

The pistons were scored. I use some 600 grid sand paper and then polish them...

Ready to be put back together.

Next!

Regulator (Conjoncteur/Disjoncteur)

2009-12-07T05:33:00.000-08:00

I am done with the regulator. It was very dirty.

The return side.

Removing the C clip holding the main spring was no walk in the park.

Dirty as expected. The piston was not free and hard to remove.

I have all my O rings in bins. The O rings I used were 1.9x6.8mm, 2-027 and a 2-123.

The return side once cleaned up.

Rustoleum "Hunter Green" is pretty close to the Citroen color. I have turned the return 180 degrees to accommodate the relocation.

Prep work and steering rack.

2009-12-04T03:21:00.000-08:00

I am going to divide the car in sections to manage the conversion and be sure not to forget anything:

- Engine compartment.
- Right rear quarter
- Left rear quarter
- Left front quarter
- Components located in the interior of the car (Pedalo in this case)
- Right front quarter

It is not a clean cut since I have to move to the next section to disconnect lines and blow out the old fluid.

First, I've got a all the parts from Ed at CIT'art in France:
http://www.citart.com/1024x768/language.php
At the same time I've got 100's of different O rings...

The parts from CIT'art:

The car: 1967 D Safari US Export

Emptying the tank and removing the steering rack.

The steering rack

Sorting out the O rings

The silicone did some damage

The rack is done