Finishing the job...

Getting the height corrector leak returns into the new rubber piece.


Hooking up the tank. from left to right: Return from the Y, suspension returns, pedalo return and height corrector leak returns.


Cut out the bulge for new rubber hose.


A common problem: The radiator hose rubs on the hydraulic line of the rack. At some point the line will leak. This one was close.

I've just glued a piece of rubber with some gasket sealer.


The owner complained about gas smell...



Ready to fill the system with the hydraulic fluid.


... Not green but works as well as LHM.


The placement of the regulator turned out to be right.



A little trick to align the hood: use a socket to hold the latch opened.


... And a gauge filler on the left side.


Apparently finished, but when I was about to tuck away the rubber hoses under the car, here what happened...


The Y broke and I had a hydraulic fluid shampoo!


The small line is very fragile, so instead of changing the part with an original, I use T's readily available at Home Depot. This will last for ever. For an "original" restoration I would have use the appropriate part of course.


After driving the car for a while, the leak returns of the height correctors started to leak. I just removed the fender and shields and replaced the rubber connection with a smaller diameter hose.

Tank + the rack is back!

The tank is ready. I am not 100% happy since I have some fish-eyes on the top, but it is difficult to get rid of the silicone which was in this tank for years and now all over my garage!

I've looked for vinyl compatibility with mineral oil and found out that it is good. So, I have changed the original stained clear tube with a new one. The mini and maxi marks are approximately 4cm and 7cm from the bottom rib. I couldn't find the right lettering for Mini and Maxi; they are 1cm height. This tank doesn't look original but it is clean and there is no confusion about the kind of fluid to use.

The rack and cross-member are in.

Fluid tank and rubber returns...

I have chemically stripped the tank. I did not want to sand blast since it would be very difficult to remove all sand from inside the tank. I was concerned about silicone while painting the tank. I have some traces on the top of the tank but it is not too bad. For a concourse type restoration I would have to redo the paint.




The piping to the main accumulator is completed


The Y is installed and all rubber lines are in place.


Ready to install the tank.

Main accu (Continued), brackets and piping.

Forming the line going from the pump to the main accumulator.

Temporary in place.

The line going to the firewall is now done.



Now connected to the car's hydraulic system.

Brackets for main accumulator relocation

Worked on the main accumulator relocation.
These dimensions of the hole spacing are for a 1966 D (The last relocation I did), so it doesn't match the bracket for a 1967. I have posted this photo for future reference. Also, this apply to a manual gear box. The main challenge is to get the regulator and sphere between the air duct for the right caliper and the air duct going to the radiator. Also the sphere has to be close to the front cross-member with enough space to be able to remove the sphere for repair. Unfortunately there is not enough space to remove the brake pads without loosing up the assembly (The pads don't ware that fast, so no big deal as far as I'm concerned).


The dimensions of the flat plates are good for a 1966 and earlier brackets. I had to cut the long one to fit the newer bracket.


This is to reinforce the brackets and avoid any vibrations.



It is now painted and drying...

Installing components in engine compartment.

Yesterday, I've installed the front height corrector...

... Pedalo...

... Front calipers...
... and brake accumulator.


Due to the silicone, the car was equipped with a pressure switch for the brake lights.

It is for a motorcycle originally.


The HP pump is also in place.


Now it is time to tackle the main accumulator relocation...

Front suspension cylinders, dampers and balls.

Started on the front right quarter...





I blew air on the suspension return from the back.

Now the back and front connections of the returns are buttoned up. Since it is a 1967, the rubber is supposed to be compatible for LHS and LHM.

The balls on the front suspensions were really rusted.


Tried to clean them but changed them with new ones (9/16" (14.28mm) hard chrome ball grade 100)


Some of the holes in the shock absorbers were clogged. Also, this configuration is before 1963; may be the sphere were change at an earlier stage but the shock absorbers were not updated. I put them back together with the new configuration (Only 2 washers).

The left side is finished.



The rod on the left side was damaged. Thanks to Dremel, I've ground and polished the end of the rod.

Left cylinder now in place.

Started to reconnect the lines on the left side.